As I write this it is the last day of our holiday in Wester Ross, a very familiar part of Scotland to the Harris family now as we have holidayed up here for the last 8 years. The day previously myself and daughter #1 set out to go explore Clashnessie Waterfall as she was desperate to visit these magnificent falls after seeing my selfie from here last year. I was concerned the falls would be barren after the recent dry spell, however, glass half full, I hoped the previous two days of rain would have brought it back to life. We set off mid-morning and after a brief stop at Knockan Crag we continued on up to Clashnessie only to find my fears confirmed...it was indeed not much more than a trickle. This was visible from the roadside so we didn't even bother doing the walk in for closer inspection. We decided to have lunch in the camper van then head further North to explore Smoo Cave. The last time we visited Smoo Cave was two years ago, however that was not a successful venture. There had been a thunderstorm the night previous and only a small part of the cave was accessible due to the huge amount of water rushing through the cave from above. We certainly wouldn't have the same problem this time.
Looking down to the cave entrance from the viewpoint above. This should grant you a sense of scale of the cave, it's massive!
After a 90 min drive through some of Scotland's most dramatic landscapes, we arrived at Durness. By this time it was fairly late in the day so we pretty much had the cave to ourselves. On the downside we were too late to do the official geological cave tour (a good reason to come back next year). Smoo Cave is a large combined sea cave and freshwater cave, with just the main chamber (sea cave) being easily accessible. To access the other parts it is necessary to do the cave tour which involves a short boat journey as well as some exploration on foot, there is a small fee involved.
With the tide out theres even more to explore before entering the cave.
Looking out towards the sea from 'cave level'.
There are two paths down to the caves, one on each side, both include steps and are winding since its a fairly steep descent. Once down at cave level its clear just how large the cave is. On our way into the cave we were greeted with an awesome sight, hundreds of stone stacks were strewn out across the entrance floor and continued into the cave, rising from the stream and on top of larger rocks. I do love a good stone stack ;)
Heading into the cave stone stacks dominate the stream bed. Thats my daughter in the centre of the pic, adding a sense of scale.
Great to have the cave to ourselves for a bit.
Once inside the cave photography becomes a bit tricky. The lack of light is the main issue but also the drips from above. Thankfully it was quiet and I had my tripod with me so I managed to get some decent images, either by doing some long(ish) exposures (longer than hand held could cope with anyway) or by doing some HDR images (High Dynamic Range, a range of images at varying exposures from dark to light then combined in post processing into one image. This ensures you don't blow out the highlights but can also capture detail in the shadows.) It can be a crude technique if overdone, personally I'm not a huge fan of HDR but in the right circumstances, like this one, it done the job.
The covered walkway leads from the main chamber into the lake chamber. Its through here that the cave tour boat leaves from.
This was an image I had in mind since my last visit here. Turned out better than I hoped to be honest. Daughter #1 being the model here.
The walkway leads into the 'lake chamber'. Its in here that the boat leaves from for the cave tour. We were too late this day but i'm also guessing the water levels may have been too low anyway as the bottom of the ladder down to the boat was at least a metre shy of the water level.
It was so tempting to jump in, just look at that colour!!!
In the lake chamber it was so peaceful compared to our last visit. We couldn't even have got to this spot the last time as the walkway was inaccessible due to the amount of water pouring down. The opening in the pic above usually has a waterfall coming down it but again another dry waterfall due to the dry spell. To be honest I wasn't complaining as this image wouldn't have been possible otherwise. Again a fairly longish exposure, possible due to the lack of people and me being able to set up my camera on a tripod.
An experimental vertical panoramic shot, turned out not bad.
Crouching in the stream to get this shot. Gives you a good idea of the quantity of stone stacks and again a wee figure provides the scale of the cave opening.
We had explored as much as we could and I had taken plenty of photographs so time to call it a day. One last thing to do and that was to climb up the large rock just outside the cave for a selfie (not quite the Kjeragbolten (Kjerag Boulder), Norway, but it'll do for now ;)
iPhone photo taken by my daughter :)
In conclusion, if you get a chance to visit Smoo Cave, take it, its well worth a visit, and its also a stunning drive there too :)